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Never Ending Soul Food Tour - Mack's Barbecue, Brunswick, GA

James Calemine’s “Never Ending Soul Food Tour” includes documented visits to barbecue joints, catfish dens, chicken shacks and any establishment serving memorable vittles. All photos by James Calemine.

Mack’s Barbecue
2809 Glynn Avenue
Brunswick, Georgia 31520

“The belly rules the mind.” - Spanish proverb

Mack Wilson opened his roadside barbecue joint in 1990 when he left the downtown Twin Oaks establishment. Wilson brought his trademark barbecue and battered French fries along with him.

The interior décor (unintentionally) appears straight out of the early sixties. Mack’s looks like a large carpeted living room - fireplace, chairs, tables, and booths, with a huge pit behind the counter.

I ordered the formidable chopped barbecue sandwich ($3.25). This tender white meat carries a smoky flavor that’s great with a few drops of Mack’s sauce. The trademark fries ($1.25) remain especially filling. The tea ($.75) is smooth as ever. The baked beans ($1.95) consist of a sweet sauce, hand-pulled pork, and small bits of choice beef.

In his short story “The Goat Day Olympics”, Harry Crews describes the type of TLC any great barbecue cook should practice: “This one here,” I gently rubbed the pig between the ears, “is light enough to hang up by the nose, so we can cut his hide in three-inch strips that’ll come off like peeling an onion. We’ll gut him by hanging him upside down with a gambling stick through his hamstrings. Wash him down good and he’ll be ready for a slow fire and a little sauce. In a few hours he’ll be so good it’ll make you sing.”

Other items available at Mack’s are BBQ Turkey, chicken, and hamburgers. On the way out, buy a tee shirt that reads, “You Can’t Beat Our Meat.”

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Mystery and Manners,

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